Category: Cycling Savvy

This is where we cover more technical and practical cycling topics – bikes, gear, clothing, particularly of interest to female cyclists.

  • Bicycling for Ladies

    This Cycling Savvy eLetter is a little bit of a departure for me. I usually focus on technical aspects of cycling, but when a customer was kind enough to send me this book, I thought this would be an appropriate place to present it.

    The book is Bicycling for Ladies (The Common Sense of Bicycling). Ms. Ward penned this 200 page book in 1896. 113 years ago! So much has changed, but so much has stayed the same.

    When I first saw this book, I assumed it would be kind of lightweight. I mean, how serious could a 1896 book about cycling for women be? As out it turns out, very serious. Ms. Ward must have been a mechanical engineer with a flair for poetry.

    Here’s the poet: “A bright, sunny morning, fresh and cool; good roads and a dry atmosphere; a beautiful country before you, all your own to see and to enjoy; a properly adjusted wheel awaiting you — what more delightful than to mount and speed away, the whirr of the wheels, the soft grit of the tire, an occasional chain-clank the only sounds added to the chorus of the morning, as, the pace attained, the road stretches away before you!”

    And here’s the engineer: “The bicycle has one weight-carrying wheel and a frame and a pivoted wheel. The driving power is applied to the weight-carrying wheel and the steering is done with the pivoted wheel. The bicycle remains upright because several forces co-operate to enable it maintain its plane, change direction, and overcome certain resisting and opposing forces.”

    Following are some of my comments with excerpts from this neat volume.

    I would be the first to say I feel at one with my machine, but in 1896, cyclists were a lot closer to their bikes in some respects. Like straightening the frame if need be: “…to straighten a bent frame is an easy matter. Take out wheels, saddle, and handlebars, and use a piece of broom-handle to spring the frame into true; or take a stout cord, fasten it to either end of the part to be straightened, insert a stick, and wind up the cord tight.” Try that on your carbon fiber frame!

    Forget about kickstands on a bike. Here’s a clever way of “standing” the bike. “A bicycle will balance in this way: The front wheel kept from moving at either the tire or the centre of the frame; the pedal resting against some firm object.” I often use a curb in this manner, but with the pedal on the back of the stroke, rather than the front as shown here.

    One of my favorite lunches to carry on the bike is Fig Newtons, grapes and an energy bar. Not so different with Ms. Ward: “…if you carry luncheon, a couple of bread-and-butter sandwiches well wrapped in waterproof paper, and thin slices of cheese in a separate paper, or hard chocolate and water-biscuit, are as good as anything…”

    We’ve all been in this situation! “Each hill has its peculiarities, which must be studied and conquered. The actual mounting to the top is not all you have to do; you should mount in proper trim, arriving at the summit fresh and fit. It is most saddening to see s ome one else mount a hill easily, leaving you, puffing and pushing, half way up, and to know that, when you reach the top, speechless and exhausted, that exasperating person will be seated there, cool, contemplative and comfortable.”

    Ward’s 1896 woman was no stranger to working on her own bike. “I hold that any woman who is able to use a needle or scissors can use other tools equally well.” “Tools are but the continuation of the individual brain and will power.” “On returning from a ride the wheel should have a thorough going over, the enamel dusted, and any mud washed off with a wet sponge. The chain…should be taken off every two or three hundred miles of dusty road, and soaked in kerosene over night; the nickel or metal well dusted, rubbed with a chamois, and polished; and all the bearings, axles, and gear carefully wiped, and dust and grit removed. Then the chain should be replaced, oiled, graphited, and the bearings oiled.”

    Weight, not of the rider, but of the bike: “A certain weight of material has been taken from the bicycle to make it light; the machine begins to lose its rigidity and consequently its accuracy, and cannot maintain its direction, but wavers, and really travels further to attain a given distance.” My how different materials and material shapes have changed this point of view!

    Nutrition is always a large part of the active cyclist’s lifestyle and it was then, as well. “A mixed diet, with plenty of variety, is the best to work on, everything to be thoroughly cooked. Beef and mutton are always good food; and fresh vegetables, fruit, milk and eggs, and cereals either with cream and sugar or milk and sugar. Simple desserts are not harmful, neither are they necessary.”

    I could go on forever with this, but by now you have the idea that this is a gem of a read. I imagine it’s virtually impossible to find in hard cover, but luckily, you can download this book from Google Books. Enjoy!

    Tailwinds,

    __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
    References:
    Maria P. Ward Bicycling for Ladies (The Common Sense of Bicycling) New York: Brentano’s, 1896

  • 650 Wheels: Pro and Con

    With the season upon us, I’ve been hearing from a lot of you who are thinking about purchasing a new bike and wondering about 650 wheels. Like Terry, many other WSDs use this size, front and rear, on their smaller models.

    In a nutshell: “If the shoe fits, wear it!”. Don’t shun a properly fitting bike because it has 650 wheels.

    What are the main objections to 650 wheels? I can think of a few: they don’t go as fast, small wheels have more rolling resistance than larger ones, tires are harder to find, and 650s are not supported in road races. Let’s see which of these have any merit.

    650 wheels don’t go as fast as 700c wheels.
    Absolutely true. If you’re on a 700c wheel riding in the same gear and pedaling at the same rate as a friend on 650s, you will go faster than your friend. But that’s not the whole story. Just how fast do you usually ride? 15 mph, 18 mph, 20 mph? At 90 rpm, in a 50 x 25 gear, the 700c rider will go 29 mph; the 650c rider will go 27 mph. Moral of the story: if you consistently ride faster than 27 mph, you might find 650c wheels to be a hindrance. The solution: fit a larger chainring or a smaller rear cog.

    Small wheels have more rolling resistance.
    What is rolling resistance? It’s one of the things that can slow a bike down. It’s caused when the tire deforms, which it does as it revolves. This happens where the tire is in contact with the ground. If you could put the bike on a sheet of glass and look up at it from below, you’d see the oval contact patch — where the rubber meets the road, so to speak. If you inflate a 650c and 700c tire to equal pressure, the contact patches will have the same area for the same rider weight. But more of the “roundness” of the smaller diameter tire is lost during deflection. This deformation ultimately causes more rolling resistance.

    So, in the big picture, is this rolling resistance important? The accompanying chart shows the resistance forces on a bicycle at different speeds (km/hr). Note that rolling resistance isn’t much of a contributor. It’s the air resistance that gets you!

    Tire Availability
    Just about everyone has a 650c tire – Schwalbe, Continental, Michelin, Panaracer, Vittoria and Terry, to name a few. With so many WSDs and tri bikes using this size, there’s no shortage of supply. According to Schwalbe tires, demand for the 650c size is increasing.

    No Race Support
    Yes, this is correct. According to our team riders, the 650 size is rarely supported and, when it is, you really have to dig around in the wheel van to find it!

    Thanks to Schwalbe Tires for the use of their graphics!

    Tailwinds,

  • Tips for Buying a Bike

    Are you thinking about buying a new bike? I frequently get calls from customers who are a little intimidated about going into a bike shop. Here are some tips that will help you.

    Which shop?

    • First, find a shop that specializes in the kind of bike you’re looking for. Some shops sell lots of road bikes, but not mountain bikes, and vice versa. You want the shop that sells the type of bike you’re planning to buy.
    • Take some time to browse as many shops as you can. Are you comfortable with the shop environment, the employees, the “feel” of the store?
    • Some women feel more comfortable working with a female salesperson. Other women have no preference. Which are you?
    • Talk to your biking friends. Which shops do they like?

    Once you’re in the shop.

    • Forget about your price point. Try bikes that are more expensive and less expensive just to see what they’re like and why they cost what they cost. If the person waiting on you doesn’t have the patience for this, try another store.
    • Make sure the test ride is enough of a ride to give you an opportunity to really assess the bike.
    • The test ride is critical! Just sitting on a bike while someone holds it up for you tells you next to nothing.
    • If you can, on the test ride, wear the shoes and clothes you usually wear when you ride. Think of it as Linus and his blanket. Eliminating as many unknown variables as possible will help you better evaluate the test ride.
    • If the shop employee who’s waiting on you is good, he/she will make sure the bike is adjusted properly before you test it. This means adjusting the saddle height/tilt/fore-aft position and the height of the handlebars. If the shop is really accommodating, they’ll swap out stems if necessary to really dial in your reach. If the bike’s not adjusted for you, it may feel uncomfortable and you may pass up on the perfect bike and never know it.
    • Let comfort be your guide. If you don’t feel comfortable on the bike and the shop can’t adjust it to make it feel comfortable, try another bike. And remember — you define comfort. It doesn’t matter how good someone says you look on the bike. If you don’t like it, it’s not for you.

    Where are you coming from?

    All the things you like and dislike about your current bike are clues you can use to make sure your new bike is indeed your dream bike. Take measurements of your current bike so you can compare it to the new bikes. For instance, if you feel too “stretched out” on your existing bike, look for a bike with a shorter reach to the handlebars. This chart will help you do that.

    Do your homework.

    • Read up on different frame materials and component groups. Check out reviews of the bikes you’re considering. Talk to other riders.
    • Don’t overload on information. Information is good, but it can have the effect of paralyzing you if you get too caught up in it.
    Watch my video series on bicycle design.

    Good luck on your search. Find that perfect bike and ride a few miles for me!

    Tailwinds,

  • Fixing a Flat Tire

    First, here’s some general information about tires:

    Since tires are your only contact with the road, it’s important to make sure they’re in good working order. Inspect them regularly for cuts on the tread or sidewall. Small cuts can hold shards of glass or thorns, which can eventually cause a flat tire. Big gashes can allow an inner tube to ooze through. Nothing’s as frightening as having a front tire blow out while you’re blasting downhill. The rear tire will wear faster than the front tire, since it bears more weight and is the driving wheel, so watch it carefully.

    Inflation pressure is also important. Proper pressure keeps the rolling resistance of the tire low and helps avoid flat tires caused from rolling over uneven surfaces. The recommended inflation pressure is printed on the sidewall of the tire.

    Use a hand bicycle pump or a floor pump to inflate your tires. Most floor pumps have gauges built into them. If you use a hand pump, use a gauge to verify the pressure. Check your tires before each ride.

    Tires that have never been used can still go bad. They dry out and lose their elasticity, so they crack and puncture easily. Replace your tires annually. It’s a cheap investment.

    Fixing the flat:

    To fix a flat, you’ll need a few tools: tire irons, a patch kit, a pump, and some arm muscles. (See, cycling [b]is[/b] good for upper body strength.)

    The first thing to do is to remove the wheel from the bicycle. If it’s the front wheel, it’s a cinch – release the quick release and remove the wheel. The rear wheel is ornery because you have to contend with the chain and the rear derailleur. Before removing the wheel, shift the chain until it’s on the small sprocket on the back and the small chainring on the front. Then loosen the quick release and slide the wheel out. If the rear derailleur cage holds things back, just pull the cage gently downward and rearward to get it out of the way.

    The next big project is to remove the tire from the rim of the bicycle wheel. You’ll probably need a set of tire irons to do this. Sometimes, if the fit is loose enough, you can work the tire off with your hands, but you’ll usually need tire irons. Start on one side of the tire and work it off the rim, using the tire irons to gently pry it over the rim. Be very careful not to crimp the inner tube in the process. Once this side is off, you can reach in and remove the inner tube. Make sure you take off the plastic valve cap and the small nut on the inner tube valve before removing the tube. Now, remove the other half of the tire.

    If you watch others fix a flat, you may notice they don’t take things apart as completely as you are. You can get away with less, like just pulling out the tube where it’s punctured if you want to repair it and you know where the puncture is. The point of this exercise is to learn about the makeup of a wheel, so that’s why you’re now holding an inner tube (punctured), a tire (punctured or possibly worse), a wheel, and maybe a rim strip (wondering what the heck it is and where it came from).

    The rim strip is a strip of plain rubber or adhesive backed cotton that wraps around the rim to protect the inner tube from the sharp edges of the rim where it’s drilled for the spokes. Adhesive backed cotton strips are preferable because they don’t migrate and they have a very long life. Rubber strips can move around and eventually dry out. Make sure the rim strips fully cover all of the spoke holes, or this could cause future flats.

    You have two options now: you can repair the damaged tube (see the instructions that came with your patch kit), or you can use the spare inner tube you always carry with you. Regardless, make sure the culprit that caused this flat isn’t still with you. Start with the tire. Check it inside and out for a tack, shard of glass, whatever. If something’s still embedded in the tire or floating around in the casing, you may have another flat in avery short time. Try to find the damaged area. If it’s small, you can usually ignore it. But if it’s large enough for more debris to enter, you should patch the inside of the tire.

    It’s a good idea to look at the tube, too. It can give you a lot of information. Flats aren’t always caused by events on the outside. They can be caused by aliens on the inside. For instance, if the rim strip has moved out of place, a rough spot on the rim may rub against the inner tube and eventually puncture it. If the puncture is on the outer circumference of the inner tube, the culprit came from the outside; if the puncture is on the inner circumference, it came from within the rim. In any event, make sure you know what the cause is so you can finish your ride without more problems.

    Reassembly can be a breeze or a bear. Start by making sure the rim strip is on and straight. Then put one side of the tire back on the rim. Put the inner tube back in, starting with the valve and then work the entire tube back in place. (Sometimes it helps to keep the tube slightly inflated, but let all of the air out after the tube is in place.) Keep it straight and untangled. Here comes the breeze or bear part: starting at the valve, using your thumbs, begin working the last side of the tire onto the rim. Check the valve occasionally to make sure it points straight toward the center of the hub. Also make sure the tire bead is seated in the rim at the valve. If you push the valve back into the tire, it will make room for the tire to “seat” itself properly.

    By the time you get about half way around the rim, it’s going to get harder to slip the tire on the rim. Make sure the tube is completely deflated and work the tire opposite the hard spot down into the channel of the rim to give you as much “slack” as possible.

    It will be very tempting to use a tire iron to pry the tire back on, but you really shouldn’t because this will inevitably pinch and puncture the tube. If you must use a tool, use one like the Crank Brothers Speed Lever. With this tool, you can pry the tire onto the rim without hurting the tube. The best situation is to use your hands, but sometimes you can encounter a very difficult fit–the rim is just a little too large and the tire is just a little too small and the result is misery and frustration. Be patient. People have been known to flag down passersby on the theory that two pairs of thumbs are better than one.

    Don’t use a gas station air hose to inflate your bicycle tires–the air goes into the tube so quickly that it can blow out the inner tube–car tires have much more volume than bicycle tires. Ever try to inflate a car tire with a bicycle pump?

    No pump? Take out the inner tube and stuff the tire casing with leaves, grass, or newspaper. Ride very slowly and walk all your turns! Hole in the tube too big and you have no spare? Cut the tube in two, tie a knot at each end, reinstall and inflate at a low pressure. Tire casing gashed? Use a dollar bill, duct tape, or an old tire casing to make a boot.

    Practice makes perfect, so you may want to try taking the tire and tube off your wheel and reassembling it. Better to learn about the snags in the privacy of your own home than under duress in a rainstorm!

    Tailwinds,

  • Bicycle Frame Geometry

    Frame geometry, loosely defined, is all about the lengths and angles of a bicycle frame. It’s important because it determines how the bicycle will perform as well as how it will fit you. Sometimes it’s easy to look at the most obvious aspects of frame geometry (how long is the top tube and what is the standover height) and forget about the rest. Understandable, because we (the manufacturers) don’t always do a good job of explaining the rest to you and what it means. This gets a little dry, but bear with me.

    So let’s start with frame angles: the seat angle and the head angle. The seat angle is the angle between the top tube and the seat tube. The head angle is the angle between the top tube and the head tube. For typical road bicycles, the head angle is between 71 and 74 degrees. The head angle, in combination with the rake, determines how the bicycle handles. Steeper head angles, like 74 degrees, are usually reserved for bikes that are very manuverable, like criterium bikes. On the opposite end, shallower head angles are found on touring bikes where, in combination with a long rake, they provide stable handling.

    The seat angle isn’t quite as sacred as the head tube angle, but it sure has important implications for fit because it determines whether or not you’re going to be able to get in the right position relative to the pedals. Seat angles range from 72 to 74 degrees with 73 degrees being the most typical. Note that by moving the saddle back and forth on the rails, you can effectively change the seat tube angle a couple of degres. Once the seat angle is greater than 74 degrees, the geometry really puts the rider in an awkward position relative to the pedals. Unfortunately, some designers manipulate the seat angle to make the top tube shorter. To easily visualize this, imagine a bike with a 90 degree seat angle (i.e., the seat tube is vertical). Yes, the top tube is really short, but at the expense of a good fit. Steep seat angles also tend to give a rougher ride: imagine sitting on a pile driver.

    Another dimension most geometry charts mention is the bottom bracket height. This is the distance from the ground to the center of the bottom bracket. You’ll find higher heights on bikes where pedaling through corners is important (like bikes used in criterium races) and lower heights on bikes where a low center of gravity is important for maintaining stability (like touring bikes). Because the bb height can vary a little depending on the tires, some manufacturers also publish the “drop”. This is the vertical distance from the wheel axle to the center of the bottom bracket. It’s a fixed number, so in manufacturing, bicycle frames are built to drop, not to bottom bracket height.

    No geometry chart would be complete without rake, which describes how much the end of the fork blades deviates from a straight line drawn through the head tube. Rake is usually in the 2 to 6 cm range. Rake doesn’t mean a lot by itself, but when manipulated in a trigonometric relationship with the head angle and the circumference of the front rail, you can derive the trail and the caster angle of the bike. When all bikes had 700c front wheels, trail used to be a hallowed indicator of how the bike would handle, but with the advent of 650c and 24″ wheels, it’s lost its luster. Caster angle is probably a better measure; caster angles in the 80 to 82 degree range give neutral steering regardless of the wheel size.

    Finally, there’s the chainstay length. You’ll find them in the 39 – 40 cm range on racing bikes, since this makes for a stiffer rear end that won’t twist under explosive acceleration. Bikes made for touring usually have the longest chainstays (43 cm +) for better shifting with wide range gearing and heel clearance for panniers.

    Hopefully this has given you a little more cycle savvy about frame geometry!

    Tailwinds,

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  • Correct Bicycle Fit for your Upper Body

    One of the perks of my job is being able to escape to the Eastern Shore of Maryland for some sunny riding around Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge.

    On a recent trip, I found myself thinking about the “cockpit” of the bicycle, the area that encompasses everything from the saddle to the handlebars. Knowing when a bicycle fits your legs is straightforward. If you can clear the top tube by a reasonable distance, then you’re set. (Well, almost; that’s the topic of my next eLetter.) But it’s not so obvious with your upper body. And when you do try to tweak the cockpit to fit your upper body, just what do you tweak? The handlebars, the stem, the saddle? One of them? All of them?

    Dominoes. That’s what cockpit adjustments are like. You get something just right at one place, only to find out you’ve lost a once good position somewhere else. Just warning you!

    Let’s start with the saddle fore-to-aft position. You probably know you can move the saddle back and forth on its rails. You want to do this to get your knee in the proper relationship to the pedal. Commonly accepted wisdom says that when you are seated on the bike, with your feet in the clips and the crankarms horizontal, a plumb line dropped from the front of the knee of the forward-most leg should intersect the center of the pedal. Move the saddle back or forth until you’re in the right position.

    We may have just run into a bit of rough. It’s not unusual for women to find they can’t move the saddle back far enough. This is because women typically have long femurs. A saddle with unusually short rails can hinder a good adjustment as can a steep seat angle (greater than 74°) on small bicycles. Ever feel as though you’re always “pushing back” on the saddle? Setback seatposts are available with varying amounts of offset which may overcome this sensation.

    Now we’re ready to work on the handlebar end of the cockpit. When is the fit right there? When you can ride comfortably with your hands on the brake hoods. This means having control of the bicycle and experiencing no neck or shoulder pain. For many women we’ve fit, 50° seems to be the magic comfort number. This is the angle between your upper body and a horizontal line. More aggressive riders will prefer to lean forward more; really casual riders will prefer to sit up more.

    The stem: styles of stems vary from bike to bike, but most stems now have spacers which can be moved above or below the stem to change its height. The stem height is right when the handlebar is level with the seat. Again, there are exceptions: more aggressive riders like the stem lower; very casual riders like it higher. If the height is right, but you feel like you’re leaning too far forward, you may be able to shorten the stem to bring the handlebars closer. Likewise, if you feel “scrunched up”, you can put on a longer stem to move the handlebars away from you.

    The handlebar: often neglected because it doesn’t look like you can do much with it. We’ve found that most bike shops set up handlebars with the brake levers a tad low on the bar. This means you have an uncomfortable bend to your wrist while on the hoods. The handlebars can be rotated in the stem. If you rotate them up slightly, it can make a world of difference in the way the bike feels. Not too far, though, or it’s awkward getting at the brake levers from the drops. To learn more, check out my video on How to Adjust Your Handlebars.

    I left out one factor in this discussion: your physical flexibility and your core and lower back strength. I didn’t pay much attention to it myself until a few months ago, but now I’m sold. The more flexible you are and the more strength you have in your core and lower back, the easier it is to maintain a variety of positions. That’s a subject unto itself!

    I hope you’ve found these ideas helpful, whether you’re trying to get a new bike to fit well or just polishing up your position on your current one.

    Tailwinds,

  • Bicycle Fit: Start Here in Your Search for Performance

    by Gary D. Hughes, Ph. D.

    Gary Hughes is a bicycle fit specialist and owner of Bodacious Bicycles in Easton, MD. He offers the three levels of bicycle fitting mentioned in this article, and he repairs, rehabilitates and builds frames and complete bikes. He is also a Terry bicycle dealer. Gary can be reached at gdh@bodaciousbicycles.com.

    It happens about this time every year – the thoughts of bicycling enthusiasts everywhere turn to France. For every year the Tour de France captivates us as the world’s most elite riders demonstrate nearly incomprehensible feats of human endurance, suffering, performance and power as they circumnavigate France in their quest for the yellow jersey. As the Tour showcases the very best in human conditioning techniques and bicycling technologies it motivates us to improve our own cycling performance.

    Form, Fit and Function

    Because different forms of bicycles perform significantly better on different types of stages (i.e. mountainous, flat, or time trial), each rider needs to use a number of different bikes to remain competitive over the whole course of the Tour. Imagine if you could select from an assortment of different length legs before setting out on a hike. You could put on longer legs for those days on the flats and then shorter ones for the mountains. Your friends could never keep up with you! More importantly, you could essentially eliminate the risk of repetitive use injury by ensuring that the applied loads never overly stressed your joints, tendons, muscles and bones. Of course realizing all of these benefits supposes that the right length of legs was selected for that day’s terrain and that the legs were sized to fit you perfectly. Otherwise this bionic entity couldn’t function optimally. You would find yourself moving awkwardly (wasting energy and possibly falling) and risking the development of a repetitive use injury (by repeatedly exerting forces on your body that it was not designed to support). This same logic applies when you strap on a bicycle. For it to function properly, it needs to have the right form and fit.

    Striking the right balance takes real science. Hence, Tour teams extensively use wind tunnel tests and computer modeling to optimize the performance of each individual bicycle-rider system. The ultimate goal is create a fit that allows the rider to deliver maximum power and control the bike while still being able to maintain a highly aerodynamic position for the duration of the stage.

    As riding enthusiasts, we too face tradeoffs. This starts with selecting the form of bicycle that will function best for the type of riding we will be doing. And selecting the right form nearly always requires some level of compromise. It also requires careful introspection. Why do you want to ride? It could be for some combination of relaxation, socializing, transportation, competition, travel, physical fitness, general health, or other reasons. Will the terrain be predominantly mountainous, hilly, flat, or mixed? Is the surface going to be dirt trails, country roads, the beach, or city streets? Is your riding style performance, touring or recreational? Answering these questions honestly and correctly will go a long way in helping you determine whether a road, hybrid, mountain, time trial, cross, triathlon, city, touring, cruiser or some other type of bike is best for you.

    For any bicycle-rider system to function optimally, the bicycle must properly fit the rider. And the more riding you’re going to do, the more critical it is that your bicycle fits you correctly. That’s because with a properly fitting bicycle, you can enjoy riding until the point of exhaustion. You will want to spend more time and miles on your bike, because you’ll be able to enjoy the whole ride. Conversely, if you were to ride a bicycle that doesn’t fit your properly you’d find yourself becoming quickly uncomfortable, soon in pain, and working harder than you need to get to where you want to go.

    The key to enjoying a lifetime of bicycling is to ensure that a good fit exists between you and your bicycle.

    Bicycle Fitting

    Bicycle fitting is an inexact science. There is no set of formulas that can completely define the ideal size and contact interfaces for any given rider. Rather, it is largely an empirical process that works by progressively approaching a perfect fit. The objective is to get the fit close enough to perfection for the rider to be able to repeatedly enjoy her cycling experiences and to ensure that she is efficient and safe in doing so.

    Three parts of the body contact the bicycle: hands, feet, and bottom. Bicycle fitting involves determining and setting the median positions of these contact points relative to one another in space so that the rider can perform optimally. In other words, this defines how far the handlebars are in front of the saddle as well as how far above or below they are. It also sets how far the pedals are from the saddle. More specifically, this position defines how far the saddle is above and behind the axis around which the pedals rotate (bottom bracket). Taken together, the positions of these three points provide necessary, but not sufficient, information for specifying the proper frame size.

    Each of the three interfaces needs to be defined, but they cannot be defined independently of one another. For instance, how a cyclist will orient herself on a bicycle saddle depends, among a long list of other things, on how far she is leaning forward, and that depends on how far forward the different contact points for her hands are on the handlebars. This interdependence means that if you want to change the handlebars, you may find that you also need to change the saddle.

    The first step in fitting a saddle requires selecting a suitable one. This selection process should start by narrowing the options under consideration to only those that will support the rider without putting undo pressure on sensitive or vulnerable parts of the anatomy while allowing the rider to pedal naturally and without chafing. Comfort can then be considered, but it should be assessed in the context of riding style. For example, cushy saddles might feel more comfortable than firm ones on short rides, but perceptibly less so on longer rides. Other factors to be considered include whether the saddle needs to be tilted and whether the seatpost supporting the saddle should be rigid or suspended.

    Handlebar selection presents a similar number of options. This too starts with selecting the right category of handlebar: mountain, road, aero, etc. Within each of these categories, there are options. For instance, with road bars there are different widths, reaches, and drops to consider. It is also important to consider where to position the brake levers and gear shifters. Then there are the pedals. Again, there are a lot of options to consider. Some options deserving of consideration include the length of the crank arms (this defines the diameter of the pedaling circle), how far the pedals are mounted from the center of the frame, the type of pedal, the amount of float, and where cleats are mounted on the rider’s shoes.

    Finally, there is one other consideration that a bicycle fitting must address in setting up these contact interfaces: the symmetry of the rider. Is one arm significantly longer than the other? Is one leg longer than the other? Or does one or both of their feet exhibit some degree of forefoot varus? Or is there some other anomaly? If so, these conditions need to be accommodated.

    Repetitive Use and Repetitive Use Injuries

    Bicycling is an athletic activity in which you repeat the same biomechanical motion over and over again for the entire ride. How many times you repeat that motion depends on how far you ride, the terrain you are traveling over, and whether you tend to mash your pedals or spin them. Although both mashing and spinning expend the same amount of energy to maintain a given bicycling speed, they exert different loadings. Mashers pedal slower but push down on the pedals harder with each stroke; spinners pedal faster but push less hard on the pedals with each stroke.

    To get an idea of the range of numbers involved, imagine two riders both riding Terry Isis Pros on this year’s Wild Goose Chase Metric Century and averaging 16 mph. Since the course was flat and ignoring the wind (which is of course like ignoring the proverbial 800-pound gorilla in the room), it might be reasonable to assume that both riders stayed in the one gear for the duration of the ride. Let’s say the masher stayed on her large chain ring (50 teeth) and a middle cassette cog (16 teeth). Her cadence would then have had to be just over 60 rpm for her to maintain 16 mph. By the time she finished, she would have applied over 14,700 pedal rotations. In contrast the spinner would have likely stayed on her small chain ring (34 teeth) and a middle cassette cog (17 teeth). With that gear selection, her cadence would have had to be just below 100 rpm and she would have needed over 23,000 pedal rotations to finish.

    Both, either, or neither of these riders could develop a repetitive use injury. Imagine sanding a piece of wood. You can remove about the same amount of material with fewer strokes by applying slightly more pressure. That’s analogous to what happens when a load, however small, is repeatedly applied in other than the way your body is built to support it. Body parts rub against other body parts or the bike in ways that cause irritation. And continuing to repeat the offending motion will cause the irritation to progressively intensify as it continues to be re-aggravated before it can heal. Left untreated, this is likely to grow into a chronic or serious health problem.

    Is there a lower limit to the onset of repetitive use injury? Probably, but it’s substantially below the numbers derived above in the Wild Goose Chase example. Consider that repetitive use injuries can occur from walking, and that the average person takes approximately 4,000 steps a day. The masher in the previous example would have surpassed that number of pedal strokes before reaching 11 miles. And once an irritation has formed, it takes but a few additional repetitions of the offending motion to re-aggravate it.

    The best way to avoid repetitive use injuries and get the most pleasure and fun out of your time on the bike is to have a bike that fits you properly. And the best way to ensure the bike fits you properly is to visit a certified bike fitter, who can assess your needs and riding style and adjust your bike to meet your specific needs.

    Adjusting the Bicycle to Fit You

    In the foreword to Andy Pruitt’s Complete Medical Guide for Cyclists, Chris Carmichael describes how, as a young racer, he had found himself suffering from severe knee pain. As a result of this he visited Andy Pruitt, who diagnosed him as suffering from iliotibial (IT) band friction syndrome and prescribed a treatment that quickly stopped the pain. However, what impressed Chris Carmichael most was not that Dr. Pruitt alleviated the pain, but that he determined and corrected the source of Carmichael’s IT band affliction—his riding position. After Dr. Pruitt showed him how to modify his riding position, Carmichael never again suffered from IT band friction.

    That is exactly the sort of experience I get to witness regularly in my work as a fitting specialist. Clients are typically experienced cyclists with thousands of miles logged. But either they can’t seem to get comfortable on their bicycle or they are beset with lingering injuries. Surprisingly, a quick fitting session often uncovers a serious problem with their current fit. Occasionally there are telltale hints, like a saddle angled up or down by 30 degrees, or handlebars wrapped in three-inch-diameter pipe insulation. Other times, it takes a bit more detective work. In either case, clients are typically amazed that by simply changing some of the components on their bicycle or inserting a spacer under one of their cleats, they are suddenly able to start riding pain free again.

    Of course, sometimes the fit analysis leads to the conclusion that an altogether new bicycle is warranted. But even that is a relatively minor cost to pay for pleasurable, pain-free, efficient riding.

    Benefits of Fitting for Recreational, Touring and Performance Cyclists

    The ultimate goal of rectifying fit problems is to keep people from developing repetitive use injuries in the first place. And the real challenge here is getting recreational and touring cyclists to consider getting fitted before buying and extensively riding a bicycle. Imagine ordering clothes without knowing your size! Yes, you could hire a tailor to take in the pants or a cobbler to stretch the shoes, but wouldn’t it be a lot easier to buy the correct size to begin with? Unfortunately, recreational and touring cyclists often feel that they’re not into bicycling enough to justify getting fitted. Worse yet, they are more likely to attribute a repetitive use injury to their lack of training—and often try to grit their way through the pain, which can exacerbate the injury.

    They couldn’t be more wrong! Although it’s counterintuitive, a poorly fitting bicycle will become uncomfortable and potentially injurious for a recreational rider in fewer miles of riding than it will for a touring rider; and touring riders will become uncomfortable sooner than a performance rider. That’s because a performance rider applies more energy to the pedals. This tends to lift more of the rider’s weight off of the saddle and handlebars as well as forces the rider to lean forward more in order to maintain a smoother pedaling motion. In contrast, a recreational cyclist tends to sit more upright and supports more of their weight with their hands and bottom. And it’s critical to ensure that this weight is supported comfortably, as well as that this position allows the rider to use their natural pedaling motion.

    It is precisely because of this phenomenon that two riders with exactly the same physiques and conditioning can require their bicycles to be set up differently: one may enjoy performance cycling and the other recreational.

    Types of Fitting

    At Bodacious Bicycles we offer three levels of fitting. The first level involves taking a series of static measurements that will let you know if your current bicycle is approximately right for you. Alternatively, it could tell you whether a bicycle you are considering to purchase is likely to fit you. Basically, it gives you a good starting point. This may be all you need if you find riding your bicycle to be comfortable and responsive. If that is not the case, however, then a dynamic fit is in order.

    A dynamic fitting involves taking another series of measurements, but this time while you are pedaling. Going through this additional level allows your flexibility, riding style, and any existing conditions to be assessed directly rather than inferred from an interview process. By the end of this process, enough information will be generated to let us confidently modify the setup of your current bicycle or specify the geometry and setup of a new one.

    The final fitting level, performance fitting, is less about comfort and more about responsiveness and power. It focuses on how changes in your position and/or cadence affect your power output. In short, it provides a laboratory and the tools necessary to hone your performance.

    A short description of each of these fitting levels follows.

    Static Fitting

    The first level, static fitting, has two parts to it. The first part involves acquiring your skeletal measurements and ascertaining information about any pre-existing conditions and your riding style and expectations in addition to any issues, concerns, or complaints you may have about your current bicycle. This data is used to generate your developmental fit parameters and to recommend a particular bicycle geometry that will not only fit you well, but is also well suited for your riding style. The second part of the static fitting process involves measuring your bicycle and assessing its range of adjustability. A comparison of these two sets of data is then made to determine how well your bicycle fits you and how it might be adjusted to fit you better—or whether you should consider changing certain components, or even moving to a totally different bicycle. Every bicycling enthusiast should go through at least this “biomechanical” level of fitting to ensure her bicycle can deliver mile after mile of healthy and enjoyable riding.

    Dynamic Fitting

    The second level of fitting, dynamic fitting, builds upon and further refines the recommendations of the static evaluation. It also involves two parts. The first part has you riding your current bicycle on a stationary trainer. Measurements are taken to define the range of angular motion of your hips, knees and ankles. In addition, observations are made as to how you naturally posture your head and neck, arms, and lower and upper back, as well the degree to which you rock your hips while riding. The second part of this process gathers the same measurements and observations, only this time it’s on an infinitely adjustable bicycle simulator. The simulator is initially set to the fit recommended by the static assessment. These settings are then incrementally refined to dial in where you feel most comfortable. It also allows you to try different saddles, handlebars, and crank arm lengths. I always recommend this second level of fitting to anyone that is experiencing continuous and lasting discomfort when riding her current bicycle. It’s also best to get this level of fitting to try out new geometries before changing any components on your current bicycle or purchasing an altogether new bicycle — as might have been recommended by the static assessment. Dynamic fitting takes the guesswork out of your purchases, and by buying the right-size component the first time you almost always save money in the long run.

    Performance Fitting

    The final fitting level, performance fitting, is intended for people looking to improve upon their personal best performance — whether for a race, time-trial, club ride, century ride or just a loop around their neighborhood. Like the dynamic fit process, it involves riding both your current bicycle and the bicycle simulator; however, this time instantaneous and sustained power output are measured as a function of different riding positions and cadences. The performance fitting process starts on the simulator, where data can be gathered that will tell you how subtle seat and handlebar/aerobar adjustments affect your power output. The same thing can be done to evaluate the effect of different crank arm lengths and handlebar widths, drops, and reaches. It can also give insight into how you should position yourself for optimal power output in climbing, descending, and riding on level ground. Once this data is acquired it is then used to fine-tune your bicycle for a particular event. The performance fit process concludes with us monitoring your power output while riding your bicycle on a stationary trainer under simulated race/ride conditions. This allows us to precisely dial-in every adjustment on the actual bicycle you will be using for that particular event.

  • Crazy Chainrings

    It must be the mechanical engineer in me — when I started reading about Rotor’s Q-Rings, I was fascinated. To the point that my desk is littered with all kinds of studies and evaluations of this and other renegade chainrings.

    Not that they’re new — oval and elliptical chainrings pop up all the time. Here’s the basic concept: the oval shape changes the effective gearing. The drawing below will help you visualize what’s going on. Imagine a round chainring (black) that has 50 teeth. If we reshape it into an oval (red), then it behaves like a chainring with more than 50 teeth when it’s in the position shown in the drawing below. As it rotates 90 degrees, it behaves like a chainring with less than 50 teeth. Kind of like changing gears without changing gears…

    The most well-known oval chainring was the Biopace™ chainring from Shimano. The design of this ring attempted to relieve knee stress by changing velocity at different points in the pedal stroke by the way the oval was aligned with the pedals. The BioPace chainring was aligned just like the chainring in the drawing, slowing down the speed of the legs at the top and bottom of the stroke and discouraging hard pedaling in the middle ranges. In theory, this was easier on the knees, which are most stressed out when the leg is at a 90 degree angle.

    The older, elliptical chainring was aligned with the “fat” part of the oval in the horizontal direction to take advantage of the rider’s power when the pedals are in this position, but it put a lot of stress on the knees and contributed to a jerky pedal motion.

    In 2000, the “Osymetric” chainring was introduced. It’s neither oval nor elliptical, but uses two different kinds of curves, giving a constant change of radius, according to the designer. These rings were seen most recently in the Giro d’Itaia on Bradley Wiggin’s Felt DA team time trial bicycle.

    The Rotor Q-Rings™ are yet another play on the chainring egg game, with the added advantage of being able to tweak the orientation of the rings relative to the crank arms in order to maximize their effectiveness. Every rider’s pedaling style differs slightly, so it makes sense for the rings to be set to take advantage of this. In order to know exactly how to adjust the placement of the rings, the rider should have a Spinscan™ done to analyze her pedal stroke. There were several university studies done about the Q-Rings demonstrating that they may help a rider develop more power with a lower heart rate.

    Well, this is a lot to digest and probably raises more question than it answers, but it does make you realize that what seems so simple — namely, your feet making little circles — isn’t so simple after all. Add your legs to the equation and now you have a piston-like action mixed in with a circular motion. What if one leg has a different pedal stroke than the other? And how does this entire “linkage” change when you move back and forth on or in and out of the saddle? Plenty to think about on your next bicycle ride!

    Tailwinds,